29 million penguins. 800 scientists.
1 very cold artist in residence.

I’m now home from Antarctica, but missing it very much, each day. I miss the incredible people, and the quality of light and air, and the vast and humbling the outdoor spaces.
Today Slate published a few of my poems from Antarctica, which you can read here. Thanks for following along!

I’m now home from Antarctica, but missing it very much, each day. I miss the incredible people, and the quality of light and air, and the vast and humbling the outdoor spaces.

Today Slate published a few of my poems from Antarctica, which you can read here. Thanks for following along!

"Part of me remained forever at Latitude 80 degrees 08 minutes South" - Admiral Richard Byrd

"Part of me remained forever at Latitude 80 degrees 08 minutes South" - Admiral Richard Byrd

My friend Cara took this great photo of a sleepy seal, dreaming of the delicious toothfish she hopes to catch after her nap!

My friend Cara took this great photo of a sleepy seal, dreaming of the delicious toothfish she hopes to catch after her nap!

Antarctic yoga: we take advantage of the only flat surface available, the frozen ice lake created by glacier run-off! 

Meeting of weekly Latin Club in Antarctica, in the category of things you probably didn’t suspect were going on at the bottom of the planet.

Meeting of weekly Latin Club in Antarctica, in the category of things you probably didn’t suspect were going on at the bottom of the planet.

Who thinks science isn’t awesome?

Just having some frisbee and beers at the foot of an Antarctic glacier, with the ecology research team after a day drilling through snow and ice. 

So remember that photo of a Pingu-looking penguin saying hi to me last week? The photo has gone crazy internet-viral and now you can even own a sweatshirt with him on it. We just have to make sure that little guy gets a kickback, payable in krill! 

So remember that photo of a Pingu-looking penguin saying hi to me last week? The photo has gone crazy internet-viral and now you can even own a sweatshirt with him on it. We just have to make sure that little guy gets a kickback, payable in krill! 

MIddle of the night pee break beside the glacier: the sun just as bright and relentless as during “daytime” hours. The sun has been up since October, and won’t set again until the middle of March.

MIddle of the night pee break beside the glacier: the sun just as bright and relentless as during “daytime” hours. The sun has been up since October, and won’t set again until the middle of March.

This little guy on the right is slightly embarrassed to receive so much press coverage today! He hopes everyone thinks he comes off well!
In all seriousness, I’m very excited to have my penguin feature article run today in Slate about life with the Adelie penguins of Cape Royds - hope you enjoy reading it.

This little guy on the right is slightly embarrassed to receive so much press coverage today! He hopes everyone thinks he comes off well!

In all seriousness, I’m very excited to have my penguin feature article run today in Slate about life with the Adelie penguins of Cape Royds - hope you enjoy reading it.

I’m wrapping up my time at a second Antarctic field camp, and I wanted to pause acknowledge the amazing ways people cook at the edges of the planet. At the penguin camp at Cape Royds, the three of us buried a cooler in the snow with our frozen goods, and used a Coleman stove to reheat frozen chiles rellenos. We stocked the tent shelves with canned goods and a pallet of Nabisco cookies. Each night, we hugely enlivened our dinner with Aftelier chef’s essences that Mandy Aftel was kind enough to send south with me. 

More recently I’ve been at a glacier camp at Lake Hoare, whose single wooden hut houses one of the most renown cooks in Antarctica, Rae Spain. Among her myriad other duties like managing helicopter drops and overseeing equipment repair, Rae cooks an incredible dinner for the science team every night. She squirreled away leftover citrus peels from earlier in the season to make into candied citrus, has jars of lemons preserving on hut shelves for her Moroccan recipes, a giant tub of sauerkraut fermenting under the coatrack, and she produces daily baked goods like rustic apple tarts and loaves of sourdough. In sum, I’m eating better here at the edge of a remote Antarctic glacier than most anyone anywhere in the world!